Champagne Cuisine
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CommentsI’ve been looking for just the right person to do the first article in a new series that will run on a regular basis. Our aim always has been to offer the best of food and it seems only logical that we offer also the best of of food writers. In this way we can we offer you, the reader, the best reading experience around. I am honoured, today, to bring you an article by Kim Steele, one of the best food writers I have ever read. You may have heard that champagne is best enjoyed by itself, without any food to accompany it. Or perhaps you prefer it with one of the classic accompaniments: foie gras, caviar or strawberries.
But have you ever wondered what the people who live and work in the Champagne region eat? It’s not all finger food and bubbles. Indeed the traditional cuisine of Champagne is hearty serious food, meant for keeping hungry bodies going in weather that is surprisingly cool for a wine region.
The region of Champagne-Ardennes is to the east of Paris in the north of France and includes the departments of Ardennes, Aube, Haute Marne and Marne. It is a sparsely populated, gorgeous countryside with rolling hills, fields, and of course vineyards. You can find many local specialties, testimony to the peoples’ close relation with the land and all it produces. Here is a sampling of what you might find on the Champenoise table:
Boudin Blanc de Rethel
A boudin blanc is a white sausage characterized by the fact that it is made with no blood. You’ll find different varieties of boudin blanc made all over France and the Champagne region is just as proud as any other region of their own version. The boudin from Rethel is made from pork, milk, eggs and spices and prides itself on containing no fillers. Each sausage maker has their own recipe and you can find boudins in Champagne that include truffles, chestnuts, carrots, onions, nutmeg, foie gras, port wine, cloves, and even more exotic ingredients.
Biscuit Rose de Reims
These pretty pink rectangular cookies are a speciality of Reims, a city that is centrally located in the countryside that produces champagne. They are colored pink with carmine, topped heavily with powdered sugar, and baked twice, producing a fairly hard cookie that is perhaps best dipped in a beverage — traditionally this has been champagne or red wine, but you certainly could enjoy them with tea as well. You don’t have to wait until you are in Reims to try a biscuit rose either as they are marketed around the world.
Soupe Champenoise
This is a popular punch for celebrations in Champagne-Ardennes and all over France. It is intended to serve a crowd and the recipe is measured in louches, or ladles (the same one you use to serve it with would work fine). In a punch bowl, gently mix one ladle of orange liqueur (Triple Sec, Cointreau, or Grand Marnier), one ladle of lime juice, one ladle of sugar syrup for each bottle of champagne. Just so your recipe comes out right, you could consider a ladle to be about 1/2 cup.
Chaource
This heese has been made in the small town of Chaource in the southern part of the Champagne region for more than five hundred years. It has an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), France’s official way of recognizing that a product was produced within a narrow geographical area and according to strict standards. It is a soft cow’s milk cheese, similar to camembert and comes in either 250 gram or 450 gram cylinders. It is said to have a slight odor of mushrooms and is for the most part served at the end of meals, although you could also enjoy it as an appetizer served with champagne.
Pieds de Cochon Sainte-Menehould
These are pig’s feet from the tiny town of Sainte-Menehould in the eastern part of Champagne-Ardenne. Legend has it that they were originally created by error when a young assistant chef left a soup pot on the fire all night long. They are made by cooking pigs feet for several hours in white wine, then breading and grilling them to crunchy, juicy perfection. The locals love their pigs feet and even have a brotherhood dedicated to promoting the correct cooking of this delicacy, a gastronomic experience not to be missed if you are in the region.
Potee Champenoise
All over France you will find different versions of the potée, a rich vegetable and meat stew. The Champenoise version usually features different sausages, ham, and bacon in addition to potatoes and cabbage. This is a great stew to make on a cold autumn day at home, but do go for a long walk to work up an appetite. You can find a recipe here: French Stew.
Ratafia
A ratafia is an alcoholic drink that was traditionally shared during the ratifying of a treaty. In Champange-Ardenne, the ratafia is made by adding brandy to the unfiltered, freshly pressed juice of pinot grapes, the same grapes used make champagne. The mixture is then aged in oak barrels for at least two years, producing a sweet, amber liquid with an alcohol content of 18 percent. This ratafia is served cold as an aperitif or with dessert, and marries well with foie gras, blue cheese, and chocolate.
Vinaigre de Reims
Another speciality of Reims is their vinegar, which is made from champagne, specifically the wine that is removed after the champagne has undergone a second fermentation . The vinager of Reims is reputed for its aromatic and slightly woody taste. Combine it with an equally refined oil, such as truffle oil; for a knockout salad dressing.
Salade au Lard
This is a warm bacon and potato salad similar to what you may have had as German potato salad. The difference in the Champagne version is that a salad green, usually dandelion greens, will be included during the cooking and the vinegar for the dressing is of course champagne vinegar.
You can learn many more entertaining tidbits about French food and culture by subscribing to la Marmite, a free monthly newsletter dedicated to helping you to enjoy your food by learning more about it. Or stop by Kim Steele’s website, Easy French Food, where you can try lots of easy French recipes. . .






