South African weather and history have a profound influence on the braai (barbecue) culture of the country. The British captured the Cape from the Dutch in 1795 because it was the French Revolution and Brits wanted to protect their trade routes to and from India, China and Australia and get hold of some of the gold that the Dutch had already discovered. Shortly after that, around 1835, 14,000 Voortrekker pioneers left the Cape because of British government policies. Most of the policies were influenced by Glenelg’s inappropriate, badly researched, ridiculous views

on the subject. They built wagons, packed up wives and families and tackled the mountains to the North in much the same way as the American pioneers did, also in search of land. Be that as it may, it was the beginning of hard times and adaptation for them. Some of them literally walked over the mountains – many of the women barefooted because there was no way that they could cross the rocky ridges in leather soled shoes and there was no other way to do it. Right at the top of the really steep mountains, the wagons were disassembled and carried over! The tracks of the wagons in the rocks can be seen to this day. Luckily there weren’t too many of those. An ox-wagon could only hold so much. There was

space for the Voortrekker and his wife up front, a wakis (a wagon chest) immediately behind him and provision was made for the family to sit and sleep in the back. In the wakis they packed ammunition for the sannas (the rifles), basic provisions, biltong, dried rusks, a massive family Bible and so on. On the outside of the wagon was hook for a cast iron pot called a potjie.  The tradition of the braai originated right here. The Voortrekkers had to shoot game, slaughter and braai it over hot coals along the way or make a potjie with what there was.  As they came into contact with the local tribesmen they were taught to use maize, an African staple (probably introduced by the Portuguese), that has been part of the braai culture ever since.There are many ways to make a braai fire and fancy modern equipment is usually used today, but a real braai fire is made from wood mounted on rocks on the ground and there are those traditionalists that still stick to this come hell or high water. Hot coals from wood are the best because of the smoky flavour it gives to the meat. The braai is a vital part of South African life, it cuts across all

cultures and is loved by everyone.  So important is the braai that South Africa has an annual braai day, which is a public holiday and celebrated on Heritage Day on the 24th of September every single year. Women love National Braai Day in South Africa because the men cook the meat – women do not braai and they certainly never complain about it. South African men have an affinity with fire and it seems that the species are prone to gathering around one as often as possible. The foods utilized are mainly meat and on the coast, all kinds of fish and crayfish are common. Today  we include recipes for skilpadjies (lambs liver in caul fat), soutribbetjie (salted mutton ribs) and a marinated braaied chicken.

SKILPADJIES (LAMBS LIVER IN CAUL FAT)

This recipe was found in my own mother’s handwritten recipe book and is one of my greatest treasures. It’s worth trying – the netvet (caul fat) beomes crisp, so that when you have prepared your liver well it is delicious.

Ingredients

• 500 g lamb’s liver, cleaned very well by your butcher, all veins and gristle removed
• Caul fat, see below*
• 1 large (preferably) red onion, finely chopped
• 3 lemons, zest only
• Velddrif (or Malden) salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Milk
• Toothpicks

Method

• Soak the liver in milk for 40 minutes so that you get rid of that taste that most people, including me, don’t like.
• Place each strip of liver on strip of caul fat onto your working surface.
• Sprinkle with a little very finely chopped onion and cover with the caul fat.
• Alternatively, you can mince the liver and and make round patties, season them add the onions and cover with the caul fat and then as with the strips, season with zest, salt and pepper.
• Braai over hot coals until the fat is deliciously browned and the meat cooked.
• *You will need to cut the liver into long strips and therefore the caul fat must be cut into the same shape, only a little bigger so that can cover the liver and the onion with the fat and make a little packet with it.
• If you are going to make little patties, then cut accordingly.
• Close it with a toothpick.

KATARINA’S SOUTRIBBETJIES (SALTED MUTTON RIBS)

Ingredients

• 2 kilograms salted mutton ribs*, try and use free range mutton here
• 2 tablspoons brown sugar
• 3 lemons, zest and juice
• 1 tablespoon cardamom seeds (removed from the little pods)
• 150 ml chutney

*If you aren’t able to buy salted mutton ribs from your butcher, add a flat teaspoon of saltpeter and 250 grams salt to your ingredients list and do as follows.

For the salted ribs

• Combine the sugar and the saltpeter and rub into the ribs very well, massage the meat thoroughly.
• Leave in your fridge, covered for two days.
• Remove from the fridge, wipe off well and hang up in a cool draft so that the meat can dry out on the outside.
• Once dry, put the meat in a large saucepan, cover completely with water and boil for 2  hours over medium heat – it must simply simmer.
• Remove and hang in a cool place to dry or put oncovered on a rack in your fridge.

Method

• Take the dried, salted ribs, sprinkle with black pepper, cardamom and lemon zest and grill slowly over the coals.
• As they reach the final stage,  brush sparingly with chutney and lemon juice, grill on both sides or, if you have a smoke stand,  allow to stand upright on the grill to smoke for the last 15 minutes or so.
• Cut into portions and enjoy.

MARINATED BRAAIED CHICKEN

Meat is expensive and chicken is more affordable and often used and braais. This is a typical South African marinade and whilst I prefer braaing chicken simply or in true Portuguese or Moroccan style using dry rubs, this one is used widely in South Africa.

• 1 large 1,5 – 2 kg chicken, cleaned well and cut into portions, leg skin with slits cut into it, wings prepared
• 5 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 5 teaspoons tomato sauce
• 3 tablespoons dark soy sauce
• 3 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 4 teaspoons mustard (hot English mustard)
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce
• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley
• 1 teaspoon rosemary, taken off the stem and finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon freshly chopped oregano (not dried)
• 50 ml brandy
• 200 ml extra virgin olive oil

Method

• Combine all ingredients very well, pour into a very large Ziploc bag and then insert the chicken pieces into the bag as well.
• Make sure that all the chicken pieces are well covered and then put in your refrigerator overnight.
• The next day, put all the pieces on a rack in the fridge for an hour or two so that as much of the marinade as possible can drip off.
• Braai over medium coals until brown and crisp.