There are many meanings attached to the word Africa and most early cultures had their own, usually similar, meanings for the word but I rather like the one derived from the Egyptian word af-rui-ka which means “to turn towards the opening of the Ka” – in other words, the womb or the birthplace and it is, I think, quite apt in this case. Africa is the birthplace of homo sapiens & it seems early Egyptians knew that which modern man took a long time to rediscover; unfortunately, though, Africa is an unmitigated political disaster.

So what happened here? Nobody puts it quite as well as Martin Meredith & I include an excerpt from an article by him that appeared in the Washington Post a few years ago because it explains the situation accurately and to the point: “Africa’s demise has many causes. Almost all African countries are artificial states constructed by European governments during the Scramble for Africa at the end of the 19th century. In all, some 10,000 African polities were amalgamated into 40 European colonies and protectorates. Colonial rule held them together effectively enough. But with independence, older loyalties and ambitions came thrusting to the fore, often exploited by prominent politicians for their own ends, setting one tribe against another, and resulting in a prolonged era of instability. So the actual construction of African states is one cause of the crisis. The Cold War certainly added to Africa’s difficulties. It precipitated wars, for example, in the Congo; in the Horn of Africa; and in Angola. Western governments were only too willing to prop up tyrants like Mobutu in Zaire for the sake of keeping them within the Western orbit, ignoring the damage they inflicted on their countries. But the principal cause of Africa’s demise is the failure of its leaders to provide effective government. In one country after another, ruling elites have been preoccupied with holding power for the purpose of self-enrichment, not for the advancement of their own people. The patrimonial systems they have used to sustain themselves in power have drained away a huge proportion of state revenues. Unlike other corrupt regimes, in Asia, for example, their loot has not been employed within their own countries but stashed away in foreign bank accounts and foreign property. It is estimated that some 40 per cent of Africa’s private wealth is held overseas. This system of corruption and misrule has continued now for more than forty years. Until it is reformed, Africa has little chance of escaping from poverty.”

The despots and the greedy that rule the continent and her people aren’t the true people of Africa; by their actions they’ve distanced themselves from her. The people of Africa are the ordinary people who live and make their homes on the oldest continent on earth and have done so since the beginning of humanity. Africa defies description because she has to be felt; she pulses through your veins; her sun blinds you and her seas and rivers storm through the impossibly beautiful mountains; even her ever shifting deserts are magical and will hold you spellbound for hours. There’s nothing ordinary about Africa and she always becomes an addiction; anyone that has lived in Africa for any significant amount of time will tell you that her dust can never be shaken off your feet and that you can never forget her, try as you might; Italians call it mal d’Africa – Africa disease. Her people have only recently been forced into countries that are not really their own & whilst they do now identify with the regions that they’ve grown to love, something isn’t working.  Could it be that Africa, like her rivers, has to be in a constant state of flux to prevent stagnation? She was the spring that gave birth to humanity so that it could move on; it isn’t possible to change something that by it’s definition constantly changes – it would be like telling a waterfall to change direction. Simply impossible.

The food of Africa is as difficult to define as her people but for the next couple of weeks we’ll be looking at the north, the west, the east, the centre and the south and we’ll highlight one or two of the better known countries but first of all I’ll look at a few vegetables known by most Africans which are usually used in conjunction with substantial amounts of meat, loads of spices and buttermilk; let’s look at these before embarking on an African journey.

• Bananas They are used in sweet and savoury foods and the green bananas can be substituted for plantains – above, a variety from which to choose.
• Morogo (African Spinach) These are the young leaves of a host of different kinds of plants including, but not limited to pumpkin, silver beets, sweet potatoes and a host of edible wild plants. The stalks are broken off and the outer strands are torn off – as one does with string beans.
• Maize (corn) This is known as mielies in Africa and are a very important part of the diet, after the cobs are harvested they are either eaten fresh or they are dried, husked and ground into mielie meal. There are two kinds – the yellow and the white mielies.
• Peanuts They are eaten raw or used in cooking – at times oil is also made and then used in cooking.
• Pineapples They thrive in the sub-tropics and are picked only when they are ripe because they don’t ripen once they’re picked. Pineapples are eaten fresh, in food or brewed into beer (Imfulafula)
• Pumpkins Pumpkins and squashes thrive in Africa and there are dozens of different kinds – the seeds are eaten as well as the flesh and they can often be seen on the roofs of African homes to ripen.
• Sweet potatoes Probably the most beloved of all vegetables, with the exception of Morogo and here, again, there are a huge variety of sweet potatoes.

HARISSA

One of the most important specialities in North African cooking has to be this one – it keeps for ages under oil in the fridge and is great served with anything from hard-boiled eggs and meat to bread and bananas.

Ingredients

• 8 Chillies, chopped but not seeded
• 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
• 1 tsp coriander seeds, lightly toasted
• 1 tsp cumin seeds, lightly toasted
• 2 tsp caraway seeds, lightly toasted
• 1 tsp cardamom seeds, removed from the green pods and crushed
• 1 large bunch fresh mint, chopped
• 1 tbsp fresh coriander leaves, chopped
• 130 ml extra virgin olive oil
• Coarse salt to taste

Method

• Pound the chillies, garlic and about a teaspoon of salt together in a pestle and mortar to form a smooth paste and put in a mixing bowl.
• Grind the spices together in a grinder until they are smooth – but not a powder and add them to the mint and chilli mixture, combining it with the olive oil.
• Pour in a sterilized jar, seal and put in the fridge for at least 24 hours before using.

RAS EL HANOUT

This is a Moroccan spice blend used in a myriad of African dishes – it has a delicious flavour and has another advantage in that only salt and lemon need be added for a particularly tasty meal.

Ingredients

• 1 dried bay leaves
• 1 tbsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tbsp coriander seeds
• 1 tbsp cumin seeds
• 1 tbsp ground ginger
• 1 tbsp black peppercorns
• 1 tbsp cardamom seeds (removed from the green pods)
• 1 tbsp dried thyme
• 1 tbsp ground chilli
• 1 tbsp grated nutmeg
• ½ tsp aniseed
• ½ tsp whole cloves
• ½ tsp allspice

Method

• Put everything in a grinder and grind finely, keep in a sealed Tupperware or something similar.
• Use for a variety of dishes.

NITER KEBBEH

Ingredients

• 1 kg butter
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 3 fat cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
• 1 heaped tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and grated
• 1 stick cassia
• 2 whole allspice berries
• 1 tsp nutmeg, grated
• Muslin cloth

Method

• Melt the butter in a saucepan,  slowly and then heat until the white foam comes to the surface, add the rest of the ingredients and simmer for about 45 minutes until all the solids have dropped to the bottom.
• Dampen the muslin cloth, fold it in half and use it to line a sieve, rest the sieve over a bowl and start straining the butter through it.
• Repeat straining the butter and discard the solids that remain in the muslin cloth.
• Put this in a screw-top jar and allow to cool before sealing and putting in the fridge – it will last for at least 2 months in the fridge.

GREEN LENTIL AND BANANA SALAD

Ingredients

• 400 g dried green lentils
• 4 ripe bananas, peeled and sliced
• few baby tomatoes sliced in half
• 2 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted
• 1 small – medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 red pepperoni (bell pepper), julienned
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
• 4 tbsp good Balsamic vinegar (this is not typically African)
• 3 tbsp fresh coriander, roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

• Boil the lentils in a saucepan in plenty of water until just tender, drain and put in a mixing bowl to cool down.
• Add the onions, the pepperoni , the herbs, the vinegar into the lentils and finely stir in the pine nuts and the bananas.
• Season with salt and pepper to taste.

SWEET POTATO AND THYME CAKES

Ingredients

• 350 g sweet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated (keep the sweet potatoes under cold water until you need to use them because they  turn brown quickly)
• 2 onions, cut in half and then thinly sliced
• 3 large eggs, lightly whisked
• 150 g plain flour
• 125 ml whole milk
• 2 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped
• 1 lemon, grated zest only
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Peanut oil for frying

Method

• Combine the eggs, the milk and the extra virgin olive oil in a mixing bowl.
• Sift the flour into a large bowl an slowly stir in the beaten eggs until you have a smooth batter, now add the grated sweet potatoes, the sliced onions, the zest and the thyme, season with salt and pepper to taste and mix well.
• Pour a little of the peanut oil into a hot (but not smoking) pan and pour a ladle of the batter into the pan and press down – repeat this process until the pan is full (with enough spacing in between so that you can work).
• Fry on both sides until the cakes are golden, remove from the pan, place on absorbent kitchen paper to drain the oil and serve hot with harissa or for those amongst us that have sensitive palates – apple sauce is great.

DORO WE’T

This is a typical Ethiopian chicken stew that’s served wrapped in Injera flat bread and eaten by hand. Note, huge Injeras are made and the whole meal is packed on one as per the image.

Ingredients

• 4 chicken leg and thighs joints – don’t cut them up, skinned
• 3 medium onions, finely chopped
• 4 fat garlic cloves, crushed
• 4 hard-boiled eggs
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 4 generous tbsp Niter Kebbeh
• 1 heaped tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and grated
• 1 tsp cardamom seeds, ground
• ½ tsp fenugreek seeds, ground
• ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
• 4 tbsp Berbere, see recipe below
• 2 tbsp smoked paprika
• 4 tbsp red wine
• Salt to taste
• Cast iron pot for cooking

Method

• Rub the chicken pieces all over with the lemon juice and salt them, put this in a bowl and cover with cling wrap so that it can marinate in the lemon juice for about an hour at room temperature – not in the sun.
• Fry the onions in the black pot over very low heat but without any oil just to soften and dry the onions completely – take the pot off the heat if it looks as if it may colour or stick  - this is important for the flavour.
• Now add the Niter Kebbeh and as soon as it starts to splutter add, one by one, the garlic, the ginger, the cardamom, the fenugreek and the nutmeg, stirring after each addition and then add the Berbere and the paprika and stir everything well for about 2 minutes.
• Pour in 200 ml water and the wine, stirring this and bringing it to the boil – simmer until the mixture has reduced and becomes creamy – a thickish cream.
• Remove the chicken from the lemon juice now, pat it dry and add the chicken to the sauce, turning each piece until it is coated with the thick sauce.
• Cover and cook for about 10 – 15 minutes until the chicken is just tender, check and correct the seasoning if necessary and serve with the Injera flat bread.

BERBERE

Ingredients

• 1 onion chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
• 225 g smoked paprika (if you don’t have smoked, use the ordinary paprika)
• 2 tbsp cayenne pepper
• 1 tsp ground dried ginger
• ½ tsp ground coriander
• ½ tsp cardamom seeds (removed from the green pods) and ground
• ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
• ½ tsp ground black pepper
• ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
• ¼ tsp allspice
• 1 dried clove
• 3 tbsp red wine
• 120 ml sunflower oil

Method

• Dry roast the ginger, the cardamom, the ground coriander, the fenugreek, the nutmeg and the glove over a low heat until they are fragrant – set aside to cool.
• Place the toasted spices in a food processor with the chopped onions, the garlic, about ½ tbsp of salt and process very slowly, adding the wine slowly to form a paste.
• Now toast the paprika, the cayenne, the black pepper and 1 ½ tbsp salt in a pan until they, too, are fragrant and remove from the heat, add the onion spice mixture and 300 ml water and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring constantly.
• Pour this mixture into a sterilized glass jar, remove any air pockets and allow to cooll.
• Cover the spice paste with oil, put on the lid and keep in the fridge.