Christmas in Mexico is a religious day and, to Mexicans, a celebration of the birth of Jesus – a symbolic day of commemoration, of introspection and of gratitude to God. The fact that it is not a commemoration of the exact day of His birth is not important to them, much like everywhere else in the world. What is important to Mexican Christians, is the actual birth and the birth of love and of  light. Christmas starts with the posadas that begin 9 days before the Holy Night, 24^th. The las posadas are a re-enactment of Joseph and Mary’s search for accommodation when they went to Bethlehem for the census.

Each family in a neighbourhood, will be given the opportunity to host the posada at their home – with the first one starting on the 16^th of December and the last one on the 24^th – on Christmas eve (Noche Buena). Everyone (friends and family) divides themselves into two groups comprising of the pilgrims and the innkeepers. The pilgrims travel from house to house asking for a shelter and are refused each time until they finally reach the house where an altar and a Nativity scene have been set up. As soon as they reach the correct home, the pilgrims are allowed to come in and everyone rejoices, traditional prayer are said and a huge celebration begins.  A feast is served and games are played.

BACALAO A LA MEXICANA

Ingredients

• 1,000 g  salted cod fish
• 1 ancho chillie
• 1,000 g tomatoes
• 125 ml extra virgin olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed and chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 pinch fresh ground pepper
• 220 g roasted pepperoni (sweet peppers), preserved in oil
• 125 ml sliced blanched almonds
• 75 ml seedless raisins
• 125 ml pimento stuffed olives
• 2 tbsp fresh chopped parsley
• 500 g new potatoes, cooked and peeled
• Sea salt (optional)

Method

• Soak the fish in cold water for 12 hours, changing the water 2 or 3 times and then drain.
• Put it in a deep saucepan, cover with water and bring just to the boil, drain, remove the skin and bones, shred the flesh and set aside.
• Remove the stem and the seeds from the ancho chillies and soak them in hot water for about 15 minute, drain and then puree them in blender with the tomatoes until smooth and velvety.
• Fry the onions and the garlic until translucent and then add the puree and cook over low heat until it thickens.
• Now add the cod, the bay leaf, the cinnamon, the pepper, the pepperonis, the almonds, the raisins, the olives, the capers and the parsley and then stir well, simmering over medium heat for 15 minutes.
• Lastly add the potatoes, cover and cook briskly for about 10 minutes just to heat – check and correct the salt.
• Garnish with the gueros chillies.

The most interesting think about Christmas in Mexico, is the role playing undertaken by it’s inhabitants during the posadas.  Many homes will set up a Nativity scene and those inhabitants will take on the role of the inn keepers whilst  their children and other adults (that have not set up a nativity scene) will take the part of the los peregrinos, who walk from home to home requesting lodging by singing a simple chant. All of them carry small lit candles and 4 teenagers, of about the same height, are chosen to carry the statues of the original los peregrinos (two small statues of  Joseph leading a donkey with Mary riding, side saddle). The head of the procession will hold a candle inside a paper lamp shade that looks like an accordion but is open at the top – it’s called a farolito, a little lantern – image of a path lit with them below.

The peregrinos will ask for lodging at 3 different homes but only the third one will allow them in – it’s this one that will host the posada for that evening (remember the posada carries on for 9 days). Once the innkeepers allow the group access, they comes into the home and kneel around the Nativity scene to pray the Rosary (a traditional Catholic prayer, consisting of 50 Hail Marys, 5 Our Fathers, 5 Glory and the Litanies) – this series of praises for Mary is common on this evening accompanied, of course, by Spanish versions of the most beloved Christmas carols like Holy Night. After prayers, it’s party time for the children. There will be a piñata, filled with unshelled peanuts, oranges, tangerines, sugar cane and unwrapped hard candy.  The children sing and chant while one of them, duly blindfolded, tries to break his/her piñata with a stick – each child gets a chance.

Even though the piñata originated in Italy, it is now a much loved Mexican tradition. Originally it was a simple clay pot wrapped brightly coloured crepe paper but nowadays, they are made cardboard and paper mache and decorated with crepe paper to prevent the children from cutting their hands when piñata was cracked to get at the sweets. While the children are munching sweets, the adults consume copious amounts of ponche con piquet, a hot punch made from seasonal fruits and a substantial amount of alcohol. On the Christmas eve,  Noche Buena, everybody attends the  Misa de Noche Buena at midnight and after the mass, they return to their homes to enjoy dinner with their families and, in true Mexican tradition, any friends who have no families. However, this does not happen before the doll representing the Baby Jesus isn’t placed in the manger.   The meal can last several hours and turkey, or pavo often holds pride of place on the table.

STEAMED PAVO  – TURKEY

This recipe arrived in our inbox a few weeks ago and we thought we’d pass it on to you – what a delicious alternative to the usual roasted turkey!  Look for some achiote paste at your local supermarket or make your own paste by grinding cumin, cloves, peppercorns and annatto seeds (image of the seeds at the bottom of the page), if you can find them.  Look for annatto seeds at your local Mexican deli but if you can’t find any, substitute some saffron – if only for the colour.  The seeds have a very earthy taste and taste nothing like saffron but the recipe will work quite well without them.

Ingredients:

• 1 x 5 – 6 kg turkey
• 225 g achiote paste – if the package quantities vary slightly, it doesn’t really matter.
• 1,500 ml  bitter orange juice
• 750 ml Mexican beer
• 150 ml runny honey
• 2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 150 ml  softened butter
• 6 banana leaves or enough fresh corn husks to line the roaster and cover the turkey
• 3-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method

• Put the turkey in a large roasting pan, after which you combine the achiote paste, the orange juice, the honey, the cumin and the oregano well.
• Lift the skin of the turkey and rub the softened butter underneath the skin, taking care not to rip the skin – it’s a good idea not to try this with long nails.
• Now spread the achiote mixture evenly over the turkey and marinate for 6 – 8 hours in a cool place.
• Line a really large steamer with half of  the banana leaves* and put the turkey onto the rack, making sure that you use all the marinade.
• Now pour the beer into the steamer, cover the turkey with rest of the leaves, and cover with the steamer’s lid  or with aluminium foil.
• Steam over high heat for about 3 – 4 hours or until the turkey is cooked – make sure that you check the liquid level every now and again so that it doesn’t dry up – just pour in more beer or water if  necessary.
• If you don’t have a steamer, you can steam it in a pre-heated oven using a roaster at a temperature of about 180 C.
• Put the cooked turkey on a platter and garnish with sliced purple onions and sliced avocados
• * If you don’t have banana leaves, you can use maize husks to get the flavour right.

STUFFING

If you’re feeling energetic, stuff the turkey with this before you steam it.

Ingredients

• 10 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 onions, chopped
• 50 g roughly grated breadcrumbs
• 500 g chopped pork
• 1 kg tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
• 180 g almonds, blanched and slivered
• 180 g green olives, pitted and sliced in half lengthwise
• 180 g seedless raisins
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 250 ml dried sherry
• Sea salt and pepper to taste

Method

• Fry the onion and the garlic in the oil until the onion is translucent and then add the minced meat and the breadcrumbs, stirring until everything is crumbly and the meat is just cooked.
• Now add the tomatoes and stir fry over medium heat until all the liquid has evaporated at which point you add almonds, the olives, the raisins and the sherry.
• Cook over medium heat until the liquid has reduced considerably – at least by half – and check and correct the seasoning.
• Stuff the turkey with this.

Gifts are not given on Christmas eve because the day is a celebration of the life of Jesus – Mexican children receive their gifts on the 6^th of January.  Since the Magi brought gifts to the Baby Jesus, it quite understandable that In Mexico they bring the toys to the boys and girls that have behaved themselves throughout the year. Children put their shoes at the window, so the magi  place the gifts in the shoe – of course, if the gift is bigger than the shoe, it’s placed next to it. El dia de Reyes (the day of the kings) is celebrated with a merienda  of hot chocolate and the Rosca de Reyes (image above) which is eaten between 17h00 and 19h00. The Rosca de Reyes is a large oval egg bread wreath (it looks like a huge egg bagel) decorated with dried fruit and sugar – inside the children will find a little ceramic doll which represents the Baby Jesus. The child who gets the piece of bread containing the Baby, will be the Godparent of the Baby Jesus during the celebration of the Candelaria, that takes place on the 2^nd on February.

At  New Year’s Eve, there will be a rooster’s mass, known as the Misa de Gallo, again at midnight to give thanks for all the blessing received during the year. Finally the Day of the Light (Day of Purification) is the day when the Nativity scene is packed  away until the next year and this is celebrated by a party, hosted by the person who received the Baby Jesus during the Rosca de Reyes celebration. The child will be responsible for making a christening gown (ropon) for the Baby and they will have a dinner of tamales and a number of other things.

CHILMOLE

This dish, also known as relleno negro, originated in Campeche and is very popular in the Yucatan peninsula around Christmas – especially when there’s loads of left over turkey.  It consists of turkey and a very spicy paste (recado)

Recado (the spicy paste)

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp achiote seeds
• 10 cloves of garlic, peeled
• 200 ml  bitter orange juice
• 1,000 g dried ancho chillies, seeded and deveined
• 2  big cloves
• 4 big allspice berries
• 1 tbsp black peppercorns
• 1 tbsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• Sea salt to taste

Method

• Put the achiote seeds in a small bowl, pour the juice over them, and allow them to soak for about 4 hours.
• Toast the chillies just until they become fragrant and then soak them in hot water until they become soft, at which point you drain them.
• Place everything in a food processor and process until they are well blended and have formed a thick paste.

Chilmole Ingredients

• 1,500 ml  cooked turkey, skinned and boned
• 2,000 ml homemade turkey
• 60 g spicy paste (recado negro)
• 2 hard boiled eggs, sliced

Method

• Heat the turkey in the broth.
• Add the recado (but mix it with a little stock first so that it dissolves easily)to the turkey and the stock and and cook to desired consistency – it must be like medium to thin mole.
• Serve in bowls that have been garnished with hard-boiled egg slices with loads of steaming hot tortillas.

Today, many of these traditions have been modernised – the posadas now consist of nine parties celebrated in the homes of nine different friends before Christmas and amongst the more affluent, the American traditions prevail.