Around 400 BC, the Greeks often held banquets like the Symposium where much was discussed and wine was consumed in vast quantities. The affair started in the early evening when the host’s wife and his young children were commanded out of sight (none of the men brought their wives but some did bring the girlfriends), chefs and waiters were hired –  the guests reclined on couches, each with a small table next to them.  It was beautifully set out – the room was lit with hanging lamps and the air filled with the aroma of perfumed oils and fragrant leaves.

Before they started eating, bread (usually made from wheat or barley) was served in little baskets and then the main course began, served on the first table. The main course was served in a particular order with the waiter taking a platter to each diner so that he could break off a piece that was to his liking and eat it with his hands. The course began with appetizers – fresh fruit, salted tuna or shellfish, small roasted birds and any little dishes of meat or peculiarities designed by the chef. This was followed by the inevitable roasted or spit roasted lamb or kid – sometimes the meat was even stewed. This having been enjoyed, the entire table was promptly removed, bones and skins and leftovers on top of the table and all. Hands could be washed and the

second table placed in front of the guests so that the dessert course could be served. Desserts were served with wine but  the host always mixed the wine with water because it was considered good manners to ensure that nobody drank too much while eating  – small cakes, little fritters and various sweet things, cheese, dried fruit and nuts were offered and if the host was rich, a different wine would accompany each sweet dish. The guests had a ball watching acrobats and dancers while they ate and when that was over, the drinking and the discussions began and the men would talk and drink often well into the night. Mesopotamians often served wine with food but the Greeks were the first to think seriously about the importance of cookery as one of the skills or arts of human life. (The chefs always knew, but it took the thinkers a while). This recipe has been adapted because in the authentic recipe, the tuna is cooked with the vegetables but it seems sacrilege to do that to a good piece of tuna and so we adapted it.

Ingredients

• 4 thick tuna steaks
• 2 tbsps thick oyster sauce (they used garum or garos in ancient times)
• 8 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 8 leeks,  cut into thick slices
• 8 celery sticks,  finely chopped
• 1 heaped  tsp fresh  rosemary, removed from the stalk
• 1 heaped  tsp fresh thyme
• Malden sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1  English cucumber, peeled and  cut in rounds and seeds removed
• 300 ml  water
• 300 ml dry white wine

Method

• Place the tuna steaks in a Ziploc bag and pour in the oyster sauce, shake the bag so that all the sides of the tuna are well covered in oyster sauce, allow to rest for 5 – 10 minutes so that the sides of the raw tuna are brown.
• Heat the oil in a large saucepan and sauté the leeks and the celery until just soft and then add the fresh herbs, the cucumber, the water and the wine and cook until the liquid has evaporated.
• Season the tuna but remember that the oyster sauce is very salty and sear on high heat to taste but only until the outside is cooked and the centre is still uncooked – for those of you that prefer it more cooked – please remember that at the very least the centre should be pink.
• Serve the tuna with the leek and celery mixture and crunchy Greek bread.